Some winter climbing.

Viv climbing Para Andy, Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glen Coe.

I finally got to try out the unique Scottish experience of winter climbing this weekend, climbing Para Andy with Viv and Sam. Ok it may seem wierd to get up in the wee hours, drive 3 hours, then walk 2 hours for 100m of climbing, but it is actually quite fun. You climb a buttress of rock covered in ice and snow, using a mixture of frozen turf, hooking your axes over edges and torqueing them in cracks.

First impressions:
This is more like cragging (rock climbing) than mountaineering. The climb was short steep and well protected. The climbing is slow. It can take a while to figure out moves, and sort out protection. Hence it is cold. You can stand around on a small ledge belaying for hours. Think I need a warmer jacket. Climbing as a three is good, as you have someone to talk to on belays. When climbing however, it is fun. You climb up features I would previously not have considered possible (or sensible) in NZ. This will improve my climbing heaps. Another suprise was how busy the hills are. As silly as this sport seems at times, there are a lot of people doing it. And at a pretty high level too. Was impressed.

Another go:

Viv climbing Central Grooves/Central Buttress first pitch, Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glen Coe.

Well I liked it so much I thought I would have another stab. Conditions were good, and worsening later in the week, so a cheeky midweek climb was in order. Para Andy (grade VI) had seemed ok, so we aimed for the hard classic of the crag, Central Grooves (grade VII). And suprise supriase it was harder! I climbed very slowly up the icy initial groove to about half way up the first pitch when my tool popped out of the icy crack and I fell. Bit of a suprise that. The wire just below me popped out, a cam blew (breaking the trigger wire) so I went a reasonable distance. Was all ok though, the climb was steep, and had plenty of gear so was a safe fall. Bit of a dent to the confidence though, so I handed over the lead to Viv. He found it hard too, coming off a bit below me, but only in order to restore my ego (cheers). He then powered up the run-out, insecure section and finished the pitch. Hurrah! I followed ok, but had to phsyc myself up a bit for the second pitch. At this stage we verred right to climb Central Buttress (VII) as it looked nicer. And what a stonker. One of the best pitches I have done in the mountains. An exposed shuffle on a clean, smooth slab to reach into a beautiful crack, tourque the tools in and swing over to some footholds. Then straight up a perfect torque crack, laying back, only friction for feet, superb. Anyway, I digress. Two more pitches of interesting climbing, we got to the top for a great sunset and I was knackered! 4 pitches took all day and exhausted me. Felt pretty satisfied on the way home. Might take it easy for a few days now.


Looking a bit haggard and icy after topping out.