Ice climbing on the Ben

Ben Nevis is famous for its ice climbing. It is a low peak, and close to the sea. This produces lots of precipitation and loads of freeze-thaw, producing oodles of ice. This winter has been very mild however, and good conditions a week ago (while in Germany) were not going to last. I finally got my chance to go climbing on the Ben this weekend. Walking in in the rain with Chad and Sam, we were on the verge of giving up. Got to the CIC hut, at the base of the North Face and there was no snow in sight. We thought we'd go have a look though, and a couple hundred meters higher, our scene changed to one far more wintery, the rain changed to snow, and dribbles of ice were dribbling down the walls beside us. We were the first party up and had the whole of this wonderland to ourselves. We picked a line, Psychedelic Wall (VI, 5), a series of icy slabs and fatter ice over steps. It was in great nick, the low temps giving good placements (if insecure protection).

Steve climbing the thin second pitch on Psychedelic Wall

I accidently ran the last 2 (or 3) pitches together and we were on top at a civilised time, a spot of lunch and time for another route. A quick down-climb of a gully and we were at the base of Two-Step Corner (V,5) a nice one pitch ice-climb. Good steep fun, but it was melting badly now. Its popularity meant it was well featured, with a series of steps to rest on. Great fun all round. Lets hope winter returns.

Steve belaying Chad on Two-Step Corner.